3.  The ignition-
switch key
cylinder does
not have to be
removed in
order to take
the bezel off,
as is the case
with the '67-'72-
model GM
trucks.
The cigarette
lighter
assembly will
also need to
be taken out.
 

6.  At this point, the crew at Early Classic highly recommend cleaning out the dust and dirt that has accumulated after decades.  This can be accomplished best using a blow gun.  Be careful not to use too much pressure.

 

4.  The five bezel
screws that hold
the cluster into
the truck's dash
can now be
removed.  The
wiring harness,
speedometer
cable, and oil-
pressure gauge
line also need to
be disconnected,
and then the
entire cluster
can be lifted out
of the dash.

 


7.  The gauge face was then gently wiped clean with a soft cloth.

 

5.  With the cluster removed and laid face down on the bench, the seven screws that hold the cluster together are removed to allow the main housing to be separated from the outer front bezel.  This step only needs to be done if you are changing the instrument lens and outer bezel.  Early Classic sells their Tach conversion kit with and without the lens and bezel.  If yours are still in good shape, the installation is even easier and less expensive.

8.  Because the orange needles on the original gauges tend to fade over the years, the guys suggest repainting them using model paint.  This will help make all the gauges match the needle on the new tachometer.  They sprayed the paint on a piece of paper, and then used a Q-tip to apply the paint to the needle.


9.  The instrument lens is captured in place between the outer bezel and the inner shadow plate.  Replacing the lens is a simple step -- just make sure that you have the numbers facing the proper way!

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